Batteries

This time of year people have usually checked their batteries or realized that they are growing weak in their vehicles, but what about our houses?
In a previous post I mentioned it is a good idea to change out that old battery in the thermostat to ensure uninterrupted warmth but there are so many other things to check out.
It would be a good idea to have a fall checklist where you replace your batteries in your smoke detectors, carbon monoxide detectors, and thermostats. Many people will do this during daylight savings and will change any clock batteries at this time as well.
Here are a few additional thoughts as you consider batteries.
Why not stop by a jewelry location and have them replace your watch battery or pick one up and do it yourself. Seems like they always go out at the worst possible time.
Your flashlights should be ready with fresh batteries or charged if necessary.
If you have a charging station maybe its time to rotate batteries so that the same ones aren't just setting in a perpetual time of cooking.
Speaking of cooking, what about your timers and scales for food and for people.
There is another side to batteries as well. As the weather turns and you will no longer be needing your mowers, tillers or any other maintenance item it is a good idea to take them out and store them properly, using a trickle charger to maintain. I do this for my motorcycle as well.
It isn't just equipment that stays outside that need to be considered. We have such things as metal detectors, remote control toys and those types of things that would be good to remove the batteries until we are able to get back out and enjoy them. Of course this list could go on and on.
One final thought would be to insure your phone battery is powered up and retains a good charge. If it is beginning to weaken and you only get a short life out of it, replace it. Batteries for most phones are pretty easily found and even if you have an apple product you can take them in and have the battery replaced for a pretty reasonable price. Shops are popping up crossed the country that specialize in this task and are fairly quick about it as well.
Stay warm and concern free by proactively dealing with batteries.
Till next time
P.M.

water shed

With all the flooding in Nebraska and Iowa this spring I wanted to send out a reminder to check your around the perimeter of your house.
Take a walk around and pay special attention to down spouts, that they are attached and directed away from any potential low spots or around cement walls, sidewalks, etc. Another common thing is to ck to make sure there are no blockages in the downspout as well as where the gutter feeds into the downspout.
You may also wish to pay special attention to the flow of the melting snow. The largest issue many of our area basements had were a large amount of rain on frozen ground and with the piles of snow the water shed was diverted to areas that pooled quickly and led to a washout that fed into the basement.
unfortunately this is a bit late and many have already experienced the misfortune of wet carpet, mushy drywall and will now be in the midst of removing the wet contaminated debris. Before replacing any products it is important to make sure every surface is dry, locate the source of the water infiltration and make the necessary repairs. Always keep your drywall off the flooring or you will find yourself with a wicking circumstance where the water feeds up the surface. If you need information or advice on this project be sure to leave me a comment and i will be glad to help out.
Stay dry, spring is coming.
P.M.

Check that thernostat

Several years ago we lived in a state where the temperatures would plummet to -25 and stay there for a couple of weeks sometimes. Although this was one of the most beautiful areas I have ever lived with fresh lakes that you could see the bottom 30 feet below you and tall majestic trees, not to mention the beautiful snow fall and wildlife. But during this time there was one specific morning that we woke up to a frosty cold house and quickly discovered the furnace was not running. I tend to think of myself as being pretty handy and after inspecting the thermocoupler, a couple of temperature sensors and checking for restrictions in the exhaust I was puzzled. Normally I could at least get it to fire up and this time the fan would kick on but no heat. As I was trying to figure it out my wife being the helpful mate she is commented that the battery symbol on our digital thermostat had been on but apparently went out. I brushed it off as if I had an idea where to go from here when she commented it might at least be worth checking. I reluctantly and begrudgingly went to the thermostat took off the cover and replaced the battery just to make sure she couldn't bother me with this again. To my amazement the furnace kicked on and within an hour we were back up and no longer worried about the pipes freezing. Learn from my mistake and keep your batteries fresh and strong by replacing them every year with your smoke detectors or if you find yourself in the above situation it may be worth a look. I have since talked to many homeowners and several HVAC guys who have shared it is way more common than one might think. I hope this keeps you warm and you don't have to learn like I did.

Cement anchors

     In our previous post we discussed hanging anchors for drywall, at least the most common and their varieties. This time we will be taking a quick look at hanging anchors for cement. Of course this is not meant to be your users guide as each installation has its unique challenges. This is to inform only.
     When it comes to hanging anything in cement there is no substitute for a good quality drill bit.

Note the difference of the tip designed to grind out the material and then auger it out. It is important to follow the guidelines on the fastener box regarding bit size. The bit size is never the same diameter as the screw. For example the 3/16 inch screw uses a 5/32 bit typically.

1. Cement screws or as many call them tap-cons.

     These are pretty simple and straight forward, drill the hole, screw the screw in. These have specially designed threads to hold in concrete and are great for fastening seal plates to floors, and other purposes.

2. Ram set fasteners

     These take special equipment but if you are going to set a bunch of nails this is much quicker than drilling and screwing in screws. This device uses a 22 cartridge and can be hammered or if you have the pistol style you simply pull the trigger. It takes one shell to one nail obviously. The advantage is speed but not always a firm hold depending on what type of cement and if you hit a mortar joint it surely will wiggle free. The nails have a rubber ring around them and are specially designed to be used with the shooters. The cartridges come color coded based on length of nail, material going into etc. and should be thought out before switching colors. If you are a gun person you will understand the term hotter load and that is the difference basically between the colors, the amount of powder.

3.Cement plugs

                                                                          

   

     There are many styles that would fall into this category but they all basically work the same. You first drill your hole and then insert the plug. Many of the ones you get with t.v. wall mounts and that type of thing are plastic and they work just fine, but my plug of choice is a metal cylinder with a burlap covering. Of course you can find these plugs in plastic, metal, burlap and many other options.

most of these plugs are designed to insert your screw of choice as long as it fits the hole appropriately. Some plugs have their own screw and cylinder combo and after putting through item fastening and into hole either hammer or screw tight. These and all compression style fittings should be weighed out as to the best option for the job and once selected will secure your item for years to come.  The above pictures are only a glimpse of the available options.

     There are a few more options however most of the day to day usage will be covered by one of the above options. I help this gets your project going and as always if you have questions or comments leave I would love to hear from you.

Drywall anchors

As I mentioned in my last post, we will be looking at wall anchors in drywall. Many of these anchors are just as handy on plaster and lathe but note there are a few that will not work as you will plainly see.
For beginners there are four basic kind of anchors for wall board.

1. Collapsible = which will squeeze the  tube after being inserted and tightened, making it flare out so that it cannot be pulled back out. These are extremely handy when you will be removing the item occasionally and wish for the anchor to stay in place. They come in a variety of sizes and weight capabilities.
2.  Expanding = is similar to the first but as the screw is inserted in the anchor it will cause the flanges to spread apart and hold the the item in place. These are also reusable but usually a plastic and not as durable in the long haul.Probably one of the easier to use however.
3. Screw in =  is just as it sounds and will conveniently screw into the wall board usually without a drill. This anchor is not recommended for plaster and lathe typically as it will break out or oval out the opening. Once the anchor is installed you insert your screw into the anchor making sure you have the proper sized screw or it will force the anchor further into the hole. This anchors immediate drawback despite its easy installation is the size of hole that is left and not a heavy holder. 
4. wings and togglers =  known for their one time use and solid grasp in any wall cavity these are the editors choice for heavy holding and a professional installation. All the others have advantages as well, but for holding power these are the big boys. These require a predrilled hole and for the toggler it will be slid into hole and the plastic retainer pulled tight and the guide wires broken off close to the wall to hold it in place until you begin screwing the screw in. The wing style toggler is similarly installed with a predrilled hole. The screw is inserted through the item being secured, the wing nut placed on the screw and pushed through the hole and then tightened. This takes a bit more dexterity and patience but will be a secure install.  

Of course nothing beats screwing into a stud but the reality is that's not always an option. My years of installation have taught me the importance of a proper install and this means the proper hardware and in many cases the proper technique. I realize there are variations of each of these anchor styles and I would encourage you to do your best to research which one would be best. For pictures you could always use a hammer in hook that holds into the drywall and has a hook. These are quick easy and out of the scope of our discussion in this post, but should be considered. Be sure and let me know any questions you may have regarding wall anchors as well as your experiences and preferences. Till next time. "hang in there"
P.M.   

Choosing the right wall anchor.

Wall anchor options can be overwhelming and honestly a bit biased depending on who you talk to. I spent many years doing contract interiors and had the opportunity not only to try a vast array but also to see how they held up under normal to heavy use. I remember a job where we were asked to hang a unit on a sheet rock wall weighing several hundred pounds and not many studs to hit. Another time we were asked to mount a wall unit for a business that neglected to tell us it was in an old x-ray room until i ruined my 4th drill bit. So lets get started. There is no way I can cover all the options in a short blog so i will break it down into categories covering each one on its own blog.

1. Sheetrock
2. plaster and lathe
3. cement
4. vertical or horizontal
5. glass, mirror and tile
6. wood
While i will try to cover each area, please note that every circumstance is unique and should be addressed before deciding which anchor to use. Also the anchor, once decided, is only half the battle. The drill bit, should you need one, is just as important to the project as the anchor. Using drill bits that are "close enough" is a dangerous practice and will lead to failure in the project. A dull or pitted bit could lead to a blown out hole leaving little material to anchor to even if the front looks fine. Finally every anchor must be in the right position and so other tools will complement and make your project much easier such as levels, stud finders, both electronic and magnetic, and its always a good idea to learn how to patch a hole as well if it is drilled in the wrong place and visible. I look forward to hearing about your projects and will do my best to answer any questions you might have as well. I would love to use your question as a topic in future blogs and will get to them as soon as possible as they come in. I don't claim to be an expert, just the pastor of repair.

so here we go

We are working out a few last bugs and will be getting some posts on in the near future. I appologize this has taken so long to get going but i think it will be of great help for the folks trying to save a buck. If you have a project you are uncertain on how to do let me know and we'll put it in the line up as soon as possible. the more projects the more posts. see ya in the workshop
P.M.